As the title may suggest, this post is all about hooded eyes. You can be born with hooded eyes, or you can develop them over time. Personally my eyes have been slightly hooded for my whole life, but with age they have become more hooded over the past couple of years.
If you have no idea what I am talking about I will try to give a quick explanation:
Hooded eyes are when the mobile lid (the part of your eye lid that moves when you blink) can be hidden by the non-mobile lid (the part of your eye between your crease and brow bone.) As you grow older the non mobile lid can lose some elasticity and come down lower on your eye. If you do your makeup for non-hooded eyes on hooded eyes, a lot of your hard work can become hidden. For example, when I look straight on in a mirror I usually can’t see my mobile lid at all, so if most of my colour is on this lid, it is being hidden when my eyes are open.
I am not a makeup artist, but I have been trying out different techniques to try to open up my eyes a little more, and I wanted to share them with my fellow hoodies!
- PRIME YOUR EYE! Eye makeup tends to transfer with hooded eyes, as the mobile and non mobile lid touch. A good primer will help keep colour and liner in place and reduce the chances of it moving around. For years I have been using the Urban Decay eye potion primer, but lately I am just not loving it as much as I used to, I find lately it has been making my eyes look like crepe paper, but that is probably more to do with the eye products I use and age. Lately I have been priming my lids with a little bit of Naked concealer, also from Urban Decay.
- Matte vs Shimmer: Shimmer eyeshadow are great for reflecting light and accentuating features, which means they can make hooded eyes look even more hooded if used all over the eye. I like to use matte colours all over, and keep shimmer on the lower/ mobile lid only, and sometimes a shimmer highlight right under the arch of the brow. I like to keep darker colours around the crease and lighter colours close to the inner corner of the eye. I always reach for Nylon from MAC for a dramatic eye highlight shade.
- Create a new crease: The crease of your eye is where your mobile and non mobile lid meet, and for non-hooded eyes a darker colour on this line looks amazing. For us hoodies, this crease is usually not visible, so create a new crease slightly higher. This will make it appear that your lower lid is larger than it actually is. Again, I would recommend keeping this colour matte. My latest obsession is matte brown ‘coffee break’ from Sephora to create the crease, over a cool tone light brown all over my lids (not all the way up to the brow bone). I have put this technique to practice below.
My eyes don’t look super hooded here just because I have lifted my brows, which gives you a better look at the eye makeup. I obviously do not walk around with this slightly surprised look on my face, it is reserved for selfies!
- Liquid Liner: I cannot line my eyes like most people, I love the look of a fierce cat eye that crawls up the out eye, but my hooded eye hides that completely! For my hooded eyes I cannot do a thick line, I need to keep it pretty tight to my lash line. I also have to bring my liner out from corner, away from the lids when wanting a cat eye or flick. It did take a little practice to relearn lining my eyes for a cat flick, but it really does make such a difference. Check out the difference below.WHAT NOT TO DO:
The flick looks pretty good when my eyes are closed, but once I open my eyes it is completely invisible. This was just a quick attempt at showing the wrong type of line for me, so nothing about this look is ON FLEEK (especially dem brows!).
WHAT TO DO:
Rather than bring the line up from my eye, I have brought it out. You definitely want to have it sweeping in an upward motion, so you don’t drag the eye down, but it is a softer out and up line. This is a more subtle flick that really blends in with my lashes, but there is nothing stopping you from bringing that line out further for a more dramatic look. Just remember it is a gentle gradient, like a swooping motion, out and up, rather than a sharp flick that goes along the lid. I also want to add that I am far from a liquid liner pro, but patience and small strokes help me achieve a respectable look.
I am currently using a really great liner from Dealz of all places. It cost €1.49 and I picked it up as a quick replacement when my last one ran out, but it is actually amazing!
- Brow Lift: You want to give yourself as much lid as possible, so when filling in your brows you always want to be lifting them up. If your brow has an arch (natural or penciled) you want to back sure the end of the brow is not dropping down, rather bring it gently down and out towards the hairline, keeping that lid open. A little under brow highlight also helps lift the brow, again I usually reach for Nylon from MAC.
- False Lashes: Long and thick lashes may look fabulous in the box, but on the eye they can totally hide all of your make up and close the space between the eyes and brows completely. What you do not want are lashes that are long enough to touch your brows, as it will make your eyes look a lot smaller! Natural looking lash strip that feature both long and short lashes, with the longest lashes above the pupil are best. If you are a reader of this blog than you will know I work with a fabulous lash brand called Nouveau Lashes. What I love about these lashes is how easy they apply, the glue is amazing and doesn’t irritate my eyes at all, which can happen with other brands. I reached out to them for this piece and asked their advice for the best lashes for hooded eyes. They were kind enough to send me three styles to try to and I am very happy to recommend them you fellow hoodys too! All the styles are quite feathery, and they add drama to your look, without taking over your eye totally. They are Natural style 4 and Volume style 1 and Volume style 2.
Natural style 4 for an evening out
- Waterproof your lashes and liner: If you find your liners and mascara are regularly transferring onto your upper lid (which always happens to me) than I would recommend looking into some waterproof options. Most of your favourite products will have waterproof option, just make sure you invest in a good eye makeup remover that will melt these products off at the end of the day. I find oil based products work best.
As I have mentioned my eyes have only become this hooded recently, so I am still learning myself how to reopen my eyes. I regularly look at some more famous hoodies, to see their makeup for inspiration, so here is a small list of gorgeous celebs you can look to for inspiration:
- Blake Lively
- Jennifer Lawrence
- Sienna Miller
- Tanya Burr
- Taylor Swift
And there you have it, my top tips for hooded eyes! If you have any tricks that are not listed I would love to hear about them in the comments below!